Spoiled Babies; Kura Tawhiti; Glacial Topography; B.S.; Arthur's Pass; Awatuna; Empty Beaches

After our amazing meal at The Oaks, we checked email and found notes and photos from Maureen and Marc. Here they are holding Little Princess Gretchen and King Rudy; they are obviously being spoiled by their temporary parents!

After a continental brekkie, we packed up our bags and headed west into the mountains. We were still north of the true Southern Alps where Sir Edmund Hillary trained for his attempt on Mount Everest (he was the first to reach the summit, along with his Sherpa, Tenzing Norgay), but the scenery was still impressive. Our first rest stop was at Castle Hill (Kura Tawhiti, or “treasure from afar”,  in Maori), where huge limestone boulders rise out of the ground in a scene reminiscent of a medieval castle. Maori would shelter in these rocks while crossing the mountains from coast to coast.



 

Here in New Zealand, the terrain has been sculpted over millennia by glaciers; this broad river valley was once filled with ice over a thousand feet deep. The rivers are still fed by glaciers and snowfields, with glacial flour (rock scraped to dust-size particles) coloring the water a milky blue.  

The roads were not heavily traveled. Oh, and careful observers may note that we are driving on the wrong side of the road. New Zealand, like Australia, England and Japan, persist in their archaic view of driving on the left... visitors have to ensure they think and look twice (or even thrice) before pulling out into traffic. While driving, we turned on the FM radio and heard this advert: "Hello, mates, calling all dairy farmers! We are here to help you with all of your effluent needs..." We looked at each other and laughed hysterically... "What, a lot of B.S.!"

 

 

We stopped at Arthur’s Pass for a hike to the Devil’s Punchbowl. Here, dense semi-tropical rain forests rise up thousands of feet from sea level into the mountains. You can see about 20 feet into the trees and bushes, but passage off-trail would be a nightmare; a mechanized machete or Abrams tank would be needed to make any progress. This was one of the areas used in the filming of the Hobbit movies, and even a casual observer can recognize the similarities between this forest and that of Middle Earth in Tolkien’s novels.   

Farther up the trail, we came to this beautiful waterfall. My Lovely Bride loves waterfalls, and with the many roaring cascades here, I’m sure it will be difficult getting her back on the plane.  

 

Avalanche warnings are common here; every trail seems to have areas where snow and rock falls have taken lives. We’re past the season for avalanches, but rockfalls have recently closed parts of several trails in these mountains.    

 

One section of our hike was so steep that sets of stairs (over 400 in all on this trail alone) had to be installed to prevent falls and injuries. 

This narrow section of State Route 73 heading west from Arthur’s Pass boasts an 18% grade, far steeper than any state road in the US we’ve ever driven. The structure on the right diverts a creek above the road, and the one on the left diverts rockslides over the cars and into the gorge below. (It must be “interesting” if you’re under that structure when the rocks start moving!) 

 

We arrived at our next B&B, Awatuna Homestead, on Sunday afternoon. It is situated in a coastal rain forest south of Kumara Junction on the west coast. 

We were greeted by Trixie, a delightful Kiwi lady who has lived in the area for decades with her husband Murray. We had a two bedroom apartment on the second floor, and no, I was not kicked out of the main bedroom onto a sofabed… here we see Miss Suzanne enjoying our sundeck while talking to her mom Ruthie on WePhone, an app that lets you place calls home for pennies per minute.   

This was the view from our window.  The foliage was truly dense here; there was a guy chopping wood about 20 feet in, and he was totally invisible.  

 

This stream close by our B&B led to the Tasman Sea. A sign notified us of a penguin breeding colony nearby, but we didn’t see any. A storm the night before had brought 75 mile per hour wind gusts to Arthur’s Pass, and 12-foot high surf was breaking on the beach. We decided not to go for a dip…  

 

You can see that even in high season, the beach here was less than crowded. (There was not a single person in sight in either direction.) Over a million visitors come to New Zealand each year, but in a country the size of the U.K., there's lots of room for them to spread out. We have only seen crowds in the city, and that's all right by us, mate!

Bungy Jumping???; What, No Airport Security? Kiwis; Maoris; A Gourmet Dinner

Downtown Auckland is much like any big coastal city - diverse, busy and very young. One of the many attractions here is bungy jumping, which was invented in New Zealand. My Lovely Bride suggested that I might like to try it out while we were in town. I watched one brave soul leaping off the Sky Tower (633 feet up); you can barely make out the figure just about halfway down his fall. I could also barely make out the scream; the wind seemed to dampen his voice. I mentioned to MLB, "There ain't No Stinkin' Way!" (Or words to that effect.)











Our sightseeing around the big city was limited because of a passing weather front that brought heavy rain, starting (of course) as we walked from our hotel to the Auckland War Museum, about a 2 km hike mostly uphill. The good news was that My Lovely Bride had suggested bringing a hotel umbrella along; the bad news that it was a dark shade of pink. Not that I have any concerns about my masculinity, but really... I had to carry a PINK umbrella? I quickly passed it off to MLB before any photos were taken.

The museum was a treat. The ground floor hosted an extensive display of Maori culture, as well as a haka war dance and singing performance, and included a brief summary of Maori history. These Pacific Islanders had arrived from Hawai'i, probably in the early 14th Century, in seagoing canoes with outriggers. The voyage was about a 5,000 mile trip, not insignificant when you think that they didn't have refrigeration, GPS or even water tanks aboard their vessels. They navigated by the stars and wave reflections from islands they passed, and on arriving off New Zealand, christened it The Land of the Long White Cloud. Europeans arrived here in the 19th Century, bringing with them all of the good and bad aspects of Western Civilization (pizza and television, for example). 




The Maori have mixed better with Europeans (mostly English stock) than many indigenous cultures, probably because of their fierce demeanor, shown here by the Maori warrior's traditional sticking out of his tongue to awe enemy warriors into surrender.The haka has become world famous since the New Zealand All Blacks, their premier rugby team, often perform the dance before international games.

The museum was originally built to memorialize the thousands of Aucklanders who served and died alongside their British and Australian comrades during World War I, particularly in the Gallipoli campaign in Turkey, when the Brits found that colonials made great cannon fodder. (The Aussies have a particularly long and bitter memory about that campaign.) But I digress... There were also some great exhibits relating New Zealand's participation in World War II; there were many Kiwis flying Spitfires like this for the Royal Air Force (RAF) during the Battle of Britain, defending Mother England against the Nazi Blitz. There was also a V-2 rocket hanging from the overhead which our tour guide neglected to mention.




While looking for dinner, we passed this little storefront that appeared to have just a few lockers along the walls. On closer inspection, it turned out to be a Smart Locker, a laundry and dry cleaning "drop shop", where you called in, got a locker assignment, dropped your dirties, and picked them up the next day all spiffed up, paid for with your cell phone. What a concept for city dwellers without cars!







Our time in Auckland up, we headed for the airport and prepared to board a flight to Christchurch on the South Island. We were somewhat appalled to find that while we and our bags were x-rayed, no one was asked to provide any identification during the entire process. You keyed in your flight reservation number at a kiosk, the computer spit out boarding passes and baggage tags, you gave your bags to a lady at a conveyor belt, and you passed through a "security" station to scan your bags, but at no point did anyone ask for, inspect or compare your ID against your ticket.


A short 90 minute flight later, we landed in Christchurch, got our rental car, and headed for a zoo. Well, it was actually an animal preserve that had real kiwis and other indigenous and recently introduced animals. Suzanne had learned from Sheree, our host in Auckland, that even she had never seen a real kiwi. They are nocturnal, and almost endangered, mostly due to predation from dogs and weasels (called stoats here) introduced after Europeans arrived. The kiwi house is kept totally dark, and flash photography is verboten, so I can only assert that yes, we did see 4 little kiwis walking around the protected enclosure where they live, digging up grubs and insects. Kiwis are unique in that their nostrils are located at the end of their beaks, rather than in the fleshy part. 

 
Suzanne also got a chance to pet some sort of Chinese pigs... YUCK! These guys have faces only a mother pig could love. She was like a kid in a candy store, having more fun than you can imagine with all her new friends.












After our wildlife experience, we got on the road; we spent the night at The Oaks of Darfield, a very nice B&B run by a gent named Hamish. We had emailed ahead asking for a spot at dinner, which turned out to be one of the greatest decisions in our culinary history. The meal may have been the best of our lives; at the very least it was in the top 3. Suzanne had salmon with garlic and roasted fennel bulb puree, saffron and mixed herb and bean potato salad, and a lemon parsley sauce; I had rack of lamb with grilled medley of courgettes, portobello mushrooms and capsicum, broccoli puree, mint and pea pesto, and red wine jus. Doesn't that plate look yummy?




Dessert was a brownie (really a huge piece of Death by Chocolate lava cake) with plum ice cream, one of the most amazing desserts we've ever had. Turns out that our host, Hamish, recently bought this B&B after being butler for ten years to the British High Commissioner (Ambassador) in Wellington, NZ. He is an amazingly talented and attentive host, and we would recommend anyone coming to the South Island plan on a visit to his B&B, The Oaks of Darfield. The next leg of our trip would take us through the mountains to the West Coast; stay tuned for more adventures!

Auckland's North Shore; Orewa; Kauri; A Beautiful Country Home

We were fortunate to have a fantastic friend and tour guide for our first full day in New Zealand - Sheree Fenwick had picked us up at the airport on Wednesday, given us a brief windshield tour of Auckland, and offered to show us the North Shore on Thursday. We had perfect weather, and Sheree showed us the beautiful (and quite windy) beach in the town of Orewa, where she had grown up. 








Orewa is on the east coast 40 minutes drive north of New Zealand's largest city, and the 3 km (2 mile) long sand beach is perfect for swimming, surfing and wind-/kite-surfing. The wind was up around 20 kts, and the beach was busy; kids are still out of school for the Christmas/New Year's/summer holiday. 












Sheree then took us to the Alice Eaves Scenic Reserve, a 16-hectare (40 acre) remnant of coastal kauri-broadleaf forest. Here is Your Humble Correspondent inspecting a kauri tree. Kauri (Agathis australis) is only found north of 38 degrees South latitude in the northern districts of the North Island. Kauri forests are among the most ancient in the world, having arisen during the Jurassic period (190 to 135 million years ago). The tree's flaking bark defends it against parasitic plants, and accumulates around the base of the trunk; on large trees the shed bark may pile up to a height of 6 feet or more. 











In previous centuries, kauri was used for shipbuilding and furniture. Today it is protected, especially because of a disease called kauri collar rot spread by feral pigs.  In fact, while going through customs, the agriculture inspector made sure our hiking boots were free of any specks of dirt or mud, and anyone having been on a farm recently was subjected to extra scrutiny. Other trees and plants were thick in the preserve; travel across country must have been very difficult when the island was first settled. 






This lovely beach has a small island, Sugarloaf, as its backdrop. Water sports play a big part in New Zealand; Auckland has the largest number of boats per capita in the world, and the Kiwis' performance in offshore sailing is legendary, as Dennis Connor is aware... (Think back to the America's Cup, which New Zealand won in 1995 and successfully defended in 1999.)







Our next stop was the village of Puhoi, the site of New Zealand's earliest Bohemian settlement, and just a mile or so from Sheree's home. (In this case, Bohemian refers to those Roman Catholic immigrants from Bohemia, now part of the Czech Republic, back in the 1860s.) We had a pleasant lunch of fish, oysters and chips at the local grocery/post office/deli. (Suzanne wishes me to clarify that she is not stuffing her face, but making an "Isn't this delicious!" gesture!  Whatever you say, dear.)








Our day with Sheree was highlighted by a visit to her home, which is located on a beautiful plot of land along the Puoi River, where kayakers and canoeists paddle by when the tide is right. Sheree and her late husband Warren had built this home themselves, even felling trees that were used in the construction. At the time they were dairy farmers, obviously used to hard work.








This honeysuckle was only one of many flowers, plants and trees in Sheree's beautiful garden.














Sheree was particularly proud of her kitchen, custom-built around an English diesel stove. All of the wood you see was harvested from their land and the cabinetry built by her husband Warren. 












 Before heading back to the city, we enjoyed a spot of strong "mud boot" tea on Sheree's verandha. The ladies had a chance to catch up on spiritual topics; Sheree is a budding medium, having studied at Arthur Findlay College in England as well.












On the way back to the city, we had a chance to admire the Auckland skyline across the water. There were few boats out due to the high winds. Sheree had been a Kiwi Angel by showing us around her home and the North Shore. It was a fun day, and made all the more special by having our own local tour guide to show us the area.

29 Hour Marathon Flight; Down Under! Flying Roo Pyjamas; Auckland

Let the adventure begin! It's already Wednesday morning, and as I begin writing this post, My Lovely Bride and I are now in the Qantas Airlines lounge in Australia, waiting for the third and final leg of our trip to New Zealand. We departed Orlando on Monday the fourth, and after a short flight to Dallas-Fort Worth (DFW), we boarded an enormous Airbus 380-800 (like the one shown arriving at a nearby gate here in rainy Oz) for a 17 hour overnight flight to Sydney. Because we crossed the International Date Line on the way, we "lost" a day, Tuesday the 5th, completely, but we will gain it back on the return trip. Our entire trip from MCO to AKL would take 29 hours.


The Airbus is a very elegant aircraft and is just a bit larger that the Boeing 747-8. (I would have preferred a US-built Boeing, but we got a good deal flying Qantas). The Qantas crew was amazingly attentive and friendly. The food was also outstanding, with superb Australian wines complimenting the meal, although I must say that their idea of coffee needs some improvement. I picked up an Aussie newspaper to get an update on the culture - it's been decades since my last trip to either Oz or NZ. I've been to both countries 6 times, but this is Suzanne's first trip, and her enSuzyasm level is red-lining the meter.










Here we see a pretty American tourist decked out in stylish Qantas pyjamas (Aussie spelling is often a bit weird) with its winged kangaroo logo - the word is taken from a Bengali word for the loose-fitting garment worn about the legs for sleeping or lounging. Oh, did I say "sleeping"? We actually were able to recline our seats horizontally and get a full night's sleep on the long trip from Dallas.










We would ordinarily not travel without our trusty canine kids, Rudy and Gretchen, but regrettably both Australia and New Zealand prohibit entry of dogs without a 6 month quarantine. We are blessed to have a wonderful couple, Marc and Maureen, taking care of the home front, allowing us to travel with confidence. Here we see Marc playing with the pups and making sure they are happy during our absence. 













After a marathon 29 hour liftoff-to-touchdown trip, we finally arrived in Auckland, New Zealand's largest city, where we were met by a Kiwi friend of Suzanne's, Sheree Fenwick. Sheree picked us up at the airport and gave us a windshield tour of Auckland on the way to our hotel. We had a quick walk into town along the windy harbor, followed by a nice dinner - an Oriental chicken salad for Suzanne and a Nasi Goreng (Indonesian fried rice) for myself - at a cozy bistro in a trendy area near the waterfront. 







Our body clocks are more than a bit confused, since our dinner hour here was really 0100 back in Florida. It's time to crash and get some real sleep before meeting Sheree tomorrow for some serious sightseeing. We're already finding out how friendly New Zealanders are.



 

Happy New Year! New Bike; Your Emerging Soul Workshop; Back in the Woods; Prezzies; Withlacoochee Bike Trail; Mt. Cook or Detroit?

Gosh, it's been a busy Christmas season. I had intended to get a blog out last week, but my feeble mind was occupied with more pressing demands. I blinked my eyes and two weeks shot past in a blur, for several good reasons. First, let me wish everyone a Happy New Year. 2016 is just starting, and I'm already behind the power curve.


My Christmas present to myself was a new bike. I've had my old Tommaso Aggraziato for about 6 years, and when MLB got her new bike recently, I got a severe case of "bike envy". All of a sudden she was passing me ("blowing past me" is an appropriate descriptor) on hill climbs, causing me great angst. A miser at heart, I reluctantly ordered a new road bike and received it in a very large box, perfectly wrapped to prevent damage and 95% built-up. 20 minutes later and I was out on the street testing it, and it has exceeded all my expectations. Unfortunately, I have spent more time on the new bike than I had intended due to a foot injury (plantar fasciitis) that has brought my running to a stop until it heals. Bike workouts are low impact and great exercise, but they take much longer to complete than a 3-5 mile run.

One of the neat things about this bike was a hand-written note from Jon the "Wrench" who assembled and tested the bike before shipping. This is my second Tommaso, both ordered on-line, and their customer service was terrific, as good as my Local Bike Shop, Village Cycles, where Suzanne and I have gotten three bikes in the past. (The only reason I ordered this one on-line was because it is not available locally, and I could not afford a bike with Dura-Ace components from a major bike manufacturer.) Believe me, this was much more exciting than getting a new car!


Suzanne has been absorbed with creating an exciting new workshop, Your Emerging Soul, that she will premier here in The Villages in late February and early March before we take it on the road. Here we see her with index cards (yes, authors and speakers still use paper at times) planning out the workshop. Both events are filling up fast; you can get more information by clicking here (http://www.suzannegiesemann.com/calendarofevents)

The Florida Trail Association arranged for me to get a woodsy fix recently on a trail maintenance work party. As my fashionable "hunter orange" tee-shirt reads, "Trails don't build themselves." On a nice warm, sunny day, 20 volunteers got to lop overhanging branches and vines, run trail mowers and generally get sweaty and dirty while improving sections of trails in the Hog Island Recreation Area of Withlacoochee State Park. 













Christmas found us having breakfast and opening presents with Suzanne's Lovely Mom Ruthie, with Santa's Helper Rudy tearing wrapping paper off the boxes while Cute Canine Elf Gretchen watched in wonder. Of course they got special treats and chew toys, in particular "high value" Himalayan Dog Chews from Beth and Mike Pasakarnis. 










Suzanne got me a new bike outfit (called a "kit") of helmet, jersey, shorts and gloves to match my new bike. If this gear doesn't make me faster, nothing will. By the way, those who have lived in the Orient will appreciate the nonsense word nuckily - Japanese and Chinese designers and manufacturers often make up nonsense English words for logos, giving English-speakers many opportunities for fun and laughter. (This particular nonsense word does not refer to the wearer as a Knucklehead, in spite of MLB's insistence that is an appropriate appellation.)












Santa brought Suzanne some very cool clothes; here we see her modeling a stylish poncho and hoping for cooler weather than the 80s we've had for the past few weeks.



















Christmas dinner was enjoyed with Suzanne's brother Brent and His Lovely Wife Cheryl at their home here in The Villages. Not only did we enjoy a fabulous repast, but Rudy and Gretchen got to play with their Dachshund cousin, Wadsey, and a friend's Westy, Spencer.











Today we drove to Inverness, FL, for our first bike ride of 2016. The Withlacoochee Trail is a 46 mile long "rails-to-trail" here in Central Florida that was converted from a railroad line between Dunellon and Owensboro, and is now a multi-use trail for bikes, runners, skaters and walkers. It's never very crowded, and road crossings are few and far between. The trail runs past small towns, ranches and farms, with a bike shop and several eateries just off the trail.  Early risers will often see deer and sometimes a bear; we saw several wild turkeys during our late morning 30-mile ride.










My Lovely Bride and I will be taking a vacation ("holiday" for you Anglophiles) to an undisclosed location, dependent on being allowed into a mountainous country far, far away. More will follow on this topic if I can find a way to post this blog via my iPad, which could be a challenge on more than one level. The planning for this escapade has been ongoing for several months, and a potential glitch came up the other night, but I think I have it solved. Time will tell. We might wind up in Detroit instead...