Here in
Canada, they take their wildlife seriously. That doesn’t mean that Friday and
Saturday nights in the bars are sacrosanct (but don’t look for a Budweiser
where Labatts is sold, eh?). What I meant was that wild animals are protected
here. For example, this is a wildlife crossing, primarily for migrating elk,
moose and mule deer, as well as black and grizzly bears. It crosses above busy
Canada Route 1, the Trans-Canada Highway, reducing the impact of
car/truck/bus/motorcycle collisions with 1,200 lb critters.
A few
kilometers before arriving in Banff (why did the Canadians adopt the ridiculous
metric system, anyway? Did they totally forget their English roots?), you pass
this viewpoint above Second Vermillion Lake (there are three Vermillion Lakes,
one more beautiful than the next)... I don’t think that there are many highways
in the world with more striking views than this.
This sign
is just beyond the exit ramp for the town of Banff. Makes you wonder if you’ll
see a big grizzly at McDonalds, chowing down on a Big Mac. “Hey, he can have my
seat!”
The town of
Banff is actually pretty small, occupying a beautiful location along the Bow
River, another blue-green glacial river that makes you want to set up a tent
alongside it and spend your life musing about your place in the Universe or
unrequited loves... or maybe becoming a professional hiker or ski bum. Banff is
actually a very international town. Most of the service staff here are young
people from places as diverse as Australia, Croatia, Poland, Ukraine, Germany,
Switzerland, and Estonia. For example, we were driving back from a hike when
the skies were turning dark and ominous with an approaching thunderstorm. On a
lonely stretch of highway, we passed a young woman running. We slowed to her
pace, and Suzanne opened her window and said, “I’m not sure you noticed the
thunderstorm about to catch up to you. Would you like a ride? It’s a long way
to wherever it is your going.” The young woman said, “Thanks, but I’m fine.” We
proceeded on a few miles to our coach, and just as we arrived, the temperature
dropped about 20 degrees and the wind and rain began in earnest, and you could
hear thunder in the distance. Obviously thinking about our daughter Susan,
Suzanne looked at me with a very concerned look and asked, “Should I go back
and ask her again?” “Yes, of course, go ahead”, I replied. She drove back in a
downpour and again asked the girl if she wouldn’t like a ride back home, which
now she gratefully accepted. She was from Estonia, and who knows? Maybe Suzanne
saved someone else’s daughter that day.
While
walking in Banff with Rudy and Gretchen, Suzanne caught this magpie hiding in
some shrubs in downtown Banff. Normally I would give you the Latin name for
this beautiful bird, as well as some interesting facts about its feeding and
mating habits. (The latter facts seem to be more popular, for some
reason.) Anyway, because we are
“Internet-challenged” here in the middle of the Canadian Rockies - we have to
drive to McDonald’s to use their Wi-Fi, and there are no electrical outlets, so
battery power is an issue - I regret that I cannot tell you whether the magpie
is a quiet prude or a raucous sexpot. I shudder to think what some readers’
imaginations are doing right now.
Just around
the corner from the magpie was this street corner sign. My first thought was of
a wildlife bar out in the woods, sort of like in the original Star Wars movie,
where a caribou and a muskrat are sitting down for a friendly cocktail... since
they are both herbivores, might they be drinking “Muskegaritas”? (My Lovely
Bride really groaned over that one...)
On Monday
morning, Hiker Chick decided that her hubby needed a challenge... so she picked
an intermediate hike with only 330 m elevation gain (let’s see, 330 x 3.3 =
1089 feet) over 5.4 km (3.4 miles) = about a 6% grade. On highways, that’s when
the signs say “trucks shift to lower gears”). (Hello! Has she forgotten that
I’m on Social Security?) I wouldn’t say no to her for anything (well, let me
think about that for a minute...), so I agreed, and off we went on one of the
most popular hikes in Banff... for young people... like TEENAGERS! Here is Your
Fearless Correspondent trudging up a very rooty, slippery slope. You will note
the red canister on his right hip... that’s the industrial sized pepper spray.
The joke here is that grizzly bear scat (poop) is usually sprinkled liberally
with pepper. (I don’t think that’s a very funny joke at all.)
The hike
started up a very crowded paved trail to two waterfalls, Johnston Canyon Lower
and Upper Falls. It is a small river which over the past 8,000 years has cut
down through a hundred feet of limestone. I was initially disappointed by the
pavement and the number of other tourists, but once past the upper falls, the
trail turned to good old dirt, and the travelers diminished to a relative
handful. (And they were mostly in their 20s and 30s!) These photos of the river
and falls give you a sense of the beauty of the canyon, but it would be even
nicer at dawn or dusk with no one else around. (Let’s see, it’s an hour drive,
so (a) get up at 0425 to make it by dawn, or (b) sleep in until 0700 and have
coffee and breakfast with Suzanne, Rudy and Gretchen... Duh, that’s a no
brainer.)
But really,
the hike was worth the trip... here was the view from the ¾ point, about a mile
past the waterfall. My Lovely Bride is obviously ecstatic about the scenery!
The trail
name was “The Inkpots”. What was that about? Well, the end of the trail was
this beautiful area of springs which literally bubbled out of the ground in a
beautiful meadow. The “ink pot” appellation refers to the air bubbles which
created inky circles in muddy water in five pools varying in size from 25 to 80
feet in diameter.
So here we
are, at the end of a long day of touring and hiking, in beautiful Banff, one of
the most beautiful places we have ever visited, and it’s time for a glass of
wine and a nice dinner of roast lamb chops, sautéed stoplight peppers, buttered
rice, and a very tasty Sonoma Valley Leese-Fitch Cabernet Sauvignon. Bon appétit!
What a beautiful place! Thank you for sharing all of this with us, Ty. I love "traveling" with you while I drink my morning coffee.
ReplyDeleteGreat pictures. Almost enough to get me off the farm!
ReplyDelete